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MUMBAI (BOMBAY)

Plus: Although this is where the trendy scene is happening, Mumbai retains the architecture and much of the flavor of the days of the Raj.
Minus: Hopelessly antiquated transportation infrastructure, from airport to taxis to roads.
Hotel: Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder, Colaba; Tel: 011-91-22-5665-3366, from $250. A bit lacking in personal service, but the palace rooms are impeccable.
Restaurant: Trishna, Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda; Tel: 011-91-22-2261-4991. Astonishing seafood; tears come to my eyes when I think of the king crab with butter and garlic.
* * *
 

GOA

Plus: The isolated high-end hotels make for lovely beach resorts; Portuguese influence still lingers in the food and the old buildings.
Minus: The roads are jammed and the beaches overcrowded and dirty.
Hotel: Taj Holiday Village, Sinquerim Beach, North Goa, Tel: 011-91-832-564-5858, from $175. Luxury cottages and other facilities spread out on 28 beachfront acres.
Restaurant: Le Poisson Rouge, Baga Beach, Tel: 011-91-832-394-5800. An innovative chef from Normandy doing French-Goan fusion.
* * *
 

UDAIPUR

Plus: A beautiful city of lakes and old palaces.
Minus: An acute shortage of hotel rooms, unless you come well equipped with cash.
Hotel: Devi Garh, Delwara N.H. 8 near Eklingji, Tel: 011-91-2953-289211, www.deviresorts.com. The palace, one of the most spectacular hotels in India, stands on the top of a hill surrounded by a colorful village an hour's drive from Udaipur. The palace rooms start at $500, rooms surrounding the garden are $350, and eight tents on the palace grounds -- complete with marble bathrooms and more comfortable than many hotel rooms -- are $150.
Restaurant: Garden Hotel, Gulab Bagh Road, Udaipur, Tel: 011-91-294-241-8881. A delicious thali plate (a little of everything, with extra helpings free) of Rajasthani food, costing all of $1.
* * *
 

KOLKATA (CALCUTTA)

Plus: An opportunity to see the old (Raj-era buildings, jostling crowds, outdoor markets, poverty) and new (gleaming high-tech zones) Indias side by side.
Minus: Appalling air pollution.
Hotel: Park Hotel, 17 Park St., Tel: 011-91-33-2249-9000, from $200. Modern, stylish and trendy.
Restaurant: Aaheli, in the Peerless Inn, 12 Chowringhee Road, Tel: 011-091-33-2228-0301. Great Bengali food, with freshwater fish the highlight.
* * *
 

HYDERABAD

Plus: You've read about India's high-tech boom; now you can see it, in a city more amenable to tourism than Bangalore.
Minus: The old India is more colorful than the new India.
Hotel: ITC Kakatiya Sheraton, 63-3-1187 Begumpet. Tel: 011-91-40-2340-0132, from $200. No historic splendor, but clean, modern and pleasant.
Restaurant: Our Place, Banjara Hills, Tel: 011-91-40-2335-4234. Hyderabadi biryani (rice with meat) is deservedly famous, and no one does it better than here.
Note: The hotel rates listed above are for the current peak season, which ends March 31. Between April and June, the months of hot weather, and July through September, monsoon time, rates can drop as much as half.

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The Andover of India? Graduates From Doon Score Top U.S. Jobs --- Scholastic Bootcamp for Boys Raises Stars, Faces Change; Gandhi Suffered Here, Too

By Anita Raghavan
Staff Reporter of THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
June 3rd, 2006; Page P1

DEHRA DUN, India -- At the Doon School, near the foothills of the Himalayas, life is spartan. The 500 boys enrolled here bathe together in communal showers. In winter, they pore over textbooks in rooms with no heat. Cellphones are forbidden and parental visits are kept to a minimum.

For 71 years, Doon has supplied India with business leaders and well-known writers such as Vikram Seth. Even Rajiv Gandhi, the late prime minister, suffered the school's famously bad food. Now Doon is taking its uniformed students in a new direction: up the U.S. corporate ladder.

The head of Citigroup Inc.'s North American credit-card business is a Doon alumnus. So too is a Merrill Lynch & Co. senior currency executive. From Raytheon Co. to Goldman Sachs Group Inc., Doon is supplying a new old boys' network in an increasingly international business world.

Many of the Doon alumni say they are still driven by the school's humbling culture. Vikram Malhotra, head of McKinsey & Co.'s New York office, recalls the pain of failing to earn one of the school's coveted blazers, awarded for excellence. "Imagine 500 boys, homogenous in what they wear, and the only way you could stand out is if you wore a blue blazer if you were good in sports and a black blazer if you were good in academics," says Mr. Malhotra, 46 years old. "I fell a point short on each one and to this day it rankles me."

Even as Doon graduates penetrate the upper ranks of corporate America, the school draws criticism that it is out of step with the times. The headmaster is pushing for reforms -- such as heating the study rooms -- but he faces some opposition from alumni.

And proposed national legislation may mandate that private schools set aside a quarter of their places for underprivileged students -- including the country's "Dalit" or "untouchable" caste, which has largely been absent at high-tuition Doon.
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